BWC Moscow 2019

BWC Moscow 2019

Welcome to the 2nd stage of the bouldering world cup. This time journey takes us to Moscow.

Moscow is the capital of great Russian federation. City well-known by its extraordinary architecture really excels both in population and size.

My journey started on 11th of April from Ljubljana airport. The journey to Moscow was smooth and it passed by quickly and I was already on the way to the hotel. The only thing that wasn’t good about the travel is that I had been feeling sick since I came from Meiringen.

Luckily I was prepared to fight the fever in Moscow as I had the necessary medicine with me.

Speed competition

The next day it was time for my first ever speed competition. Still feeling sick didn’t really contribute to my agility. Nevertheless I decided to do both practice runs in order to wake up my body. After a small but nutritious lunch I was ready to go. During both runs I felt a bit shaky and everything was happening to fast for me. Therefore 8.78s was my debut speed time. Nothing to be super proud about but considering I was not completely healthy it was solid.

Bouldering qualification

@leozhukovphoto

It was time to get some rest, because the next day, was bouldering day! Although I was not completely healthy I was still two times more psyched for bouldering than I was for speed. From the previous competition I knew I was well prepared it was just to get clear my head and not to think about feeling sick.With qualifications starting in the afternoon for men I had some additional time to rest.

After seeing our girls crush the competition it was my turn. Warm up went according to plan and I was already in the transit zone waiting to climb. First two problems went down really quickly and I got the confidence boost for the next 3 problems. Nevertheless boulder number three was by far the easiest problem in the qualifications but I somehow failed to top it. I just couldn’t figure out the correct beta. Finally I topped the fourth problem and ended qualifications with 3 tops/5 zones. That was enough for 17th place. Another semifinals, Yesss!

Bouldering semi-final

@leozhukovphoto

Climbing among top 20 climbers is always super fun, but it’s usually the hardest round of the competition. All climbers are super strong and everyone has it’s own advantages. I certainly knew what my are and after walking in front of the first semifinal problem I was a bit shocked, realising that the problem is just pure physics. Thinking like that certainly didn’t help top it, so I ended up with zone only.

The second problem was coordination one. This is the skill I really know so I topped the problem. The third problem was slab. I was feeling confident of doing it but I must say I was quite dissapointed with my climbing, as I did way to many tries instead of doing a few quality ones…

Just one more problem was left for me. It was far from easy as previously only Adam Ondra topped it. I knew I had nothing to lose, so I pulled as hard as I could and DID IT! Furthermore that problem saw no more tops after me so it was just me and Adam. That’s the top I was proud of, never mind the final result.

I was not that confident with my performance but somehow it was enough for 3rd place after semifinals!!! That means that I was going to climb in my first BWC Finals!

Bouldering final

@leozhukovphoto

In finals it was just about having fun. I must say the set wasn’t really my style so I just focused on having fun instead of negative thoughts.

In the end everything happend by itself I was just climbing. What an amazing feeling! The crowd seemed to be having fun and therefore they were giving me a boost of energy which surely helped with my climbing.

I finished on the 4th place in the end. I had 2 tops/3 zones and I fell from the top of 3rd problem. Not my brightest moment of competition climbing but at least I enjoyed it! 4th place is currently my best world cup result to date and I am super excited for the upcoming competitions!

Next up

I have always dreamed of competing in a world cup final and it finally happened! I would like to thank everyone who supported me so far. This years journey has just started and I can’t wait for what the future holds for me. It’s China time soon!

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